Korean Exfoliators: AHA, BHA or PHA – Which One Is Right for Your Skin?

In Korean skincare, exfoliation does not mean scrubbing. It means dissolving dead skin flakes so the skin looks smoother, pores look clearer and the complexion looks fresher. There are three ways to do this – acids (AHA, BHA, PHA), peeling gels and clay masks – and each one suits a different skin. So instead of a ranking, here is a guide: 12 Korean exfoliators from our range, sorted by active and skin concern, with concentration and how often to use them.

AHA, BHA, PHA: what the difference is

  • AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid) dissolves dead skin cells on the surface. For rough, dull skin and uneven texture.
  • BHA (salicylic acid, betaine salicylate) works inside the pore: it dissolves sebum and blackheads. For oily skin, clogged pores and impurities.
  • PHA (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) is the mildest acid. For sensitive skin and exfoliation beginners.
  • Peeling gels work with cellulose, which forms little rolls as you massage and takes skin flakes with it – without acid tingling.
  • Clay masks absorb sebum and clear pores, once a week.

BHA: against blackheads and clogged pores

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid

The classic against blackheads: 4 % betaine salicylate with willow bark water, niacinamide, panthenol and hyaluronic acid. Clears clogged pores, balances oil production and still keeps the skin comfortable. Fragrance-free. After cleansing, apply a thin layer to the whole face or only to the T-zone. Start with 2–3 applications per week. Vegan.

Benton Aloe BHA Skin Toner

The gentle introduction to BHA: 80 % aloe leaf water and 0.5 % salicylic acid, plus hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan and snail secretion filtrate. Clears mildly and hydrates at the same time. For unsettled skin that shines in some places and is still sensitive. Daily after cleansing, introduce slowly if your skin is sensitive.

AHA: for rough, dull skin

COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid

7 % glycolic acid with apple fruit water and niacinamide: dissolves dead skin cells, smooths the surface and helps with whiteheads and dull texture. The strongest AHA in this list. Apply a thin layer with a cotton pad, introduce slowly, not at the same time as other acids, retinoids or vitamin C. SPF 30 or higher during the day. According to the manufacturer, not during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Vegan.

Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence

8 % AHA from glycolic and lactic acid as a leave-on essence, with chestnut shell extract, centella and hyaluronic acid so the skin stays nourished despite exfoliation. For dull, rough skin with small bumps. At first a few times per week after toner, then increase. Vegan.

AHA + BHA combined: toner, serum, pad

COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner

The beginner toner for chemical exfoliation: willow bark water, apple fruit water, glycolic acid and betaine salicylate in a mild dose, plus allantoin and panthenol. COSRX lists all skin types including sensitive. Morning and evening after cleansing with a cotton pad, and with sensitive skin start with 2–3 applications per week. Sun protection during the day. Vegan.

#OOTD AHA-BHA Clarifying Serum

The exfoliating serum for the night: AHA, BHA, PHA and the enzymes papain and bromelain dissolve skin flakes mildly, hyaluronic acid keeps the hydration. For rough, dull skin with clogged pores. A pearl-sized amount on cleansed skin, then cream. Described by the manufacturer as non-comedogenic. Vegan.

Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0

Exfoliation in one step: lactic acid, salicylic acid and betaine salicylate on a pad whose textured side also exfoliates mechanically, while the smooth side wipes afterward. Hyaluronic acid and allantoin keep the skin in balance. For enlarged pores, blackheads and rough texture on oily skin and combination skin. For acid beginners 2–3 times per week. Contains citrus oils, so not the first choice for fragrance-sensitive skin.

PHA: for sensitive skin

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Toning Toner

84 % Madagascar centella and mild PHA (gluconolactone): gently dissolves skin flakes and sebum and clears the skin, while niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and adenosine nourish. The exfoliating toner for daily use, even on sensitive skin. Tested non-comedogenic.

Benton PHA Peeling Gel

PHA (lactobionic acid) and cellulose in a gel, plus hyaluronic acid and ceramides so the skin feels soft after exfoliation. Apply to dry skin, massage in circles until flakes come loose, rinse off. One to several times per week. For sensitive skin that wants exfoliation without a rough feeling. Vegan.

Peeling gel: without acid tingling

Beauty of Joseon Apricot Blossom Peeling Gel

Gommage exfoliation with 19 % apricot blossom water and 8 % cellulose: massage in circles on dry skin for about 20 seconds until little rolls form, then rinse off. Removes skin flakes and sebum without stressing the skin. 1–2 times per week, mild enough for beginners and sensitive skin.

Clay masks: clear pores, once a week

Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask

Red bean and kaolin absorb sebum and dissolve impurities, and the bean powder exfoliates gently as well. Apply a thick layer to damp skin, leave for 5–10 minutes, massage in, rinse off. For combination skin and oily skin with shine and congested pores. Vegan.

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Poremizing Quick Clay Stick Mask

Five clays and red bean in a stick: apply directly to the T-zone or face without a brush, leave for 5–10 minutes, rinse off. Absorbs sebum, exfoliates gently, centella soothes. For combination skin and oily skin, 2–3 times per week. Vegan and fragrance-free.

The short version

  • Blackheads, clogged pores: COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid or Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0
  • Rough, dull skin: Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence or COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid
  • Sensitive skin: SKIN1004 Toning Toner or Benton PHA Peeling Gel
  • Beginners, daily use: COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner or Benton Aloe BHA Skin Toner
  • Oily skin, once a week: Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Pore Mask or SKIN1004 Clay Stick Mask
  • Without acid: Beauty of Joseon Apricot Blossom Peeling Gel

How often and how safely

Exfoliation is not a daily step, unless the product is made for it – the mild toners from COSRX, Benton and SKIN1004. Everything else starts with 2–3 applications per week, peeling gels and masks with once or twice. Increase only when the skin stays calm.

One exfoliator per routine is enough. Do not combine AHA, BHA or PHA in the same step with retinol or pure ascorbic acid, but spread them over different evenings. And sun protection every morning: freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to UV radiation. Which sunscreen feels light is shown in our guide Best Korean Sunscreen.

Frequently asked questions

AHA or BHA: which is right for me?

Oily skin, blackheads, shine in the T-zone: BHA, because it works inside the pore. Dry or dull skin with a rough surface: AHA. Unsure or sensitive: PHA or a combination toner in a mild dose.

How often should I exfoliate?

Acid liquids, pads and essences 2–3 times per week, peeling gel and clay masks once or twice. Mild exfoliating toners are made for daily use. If the skin feels tight, turns red or flakes, it is too much.

Can I combine exfoliation and vitamin C?

Not in the same step. Vitamin C in the morning, acid in the evening is the simplest split. The derivatives, such as 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are less complicated here than pure ascorbic acid.

Do I need special care after exfoliating?

After an acid step, the normal routine follows: serum, cream, sun protection in the morning. After peeling gels and masks that are rinsed off, the routine starts again at the toner. A soothing cream with centella or ceramides makes the evening after exfoliating more pleasant.

What is the difference between a peeling gel and an acid exfoliator?

A peeling gel is massaged in and rinsed off, and the cellulose takes skin flakes with it as it rolls. An acid exfoliator stays on the skin and dissolves the bonds between the dead cells. The gel works visibly right away, the acid works on pores and texture over weeks.

You can find all exfoliators from this article and more in our collection Korean Exfoliators, and everything about pores in the collection Pore Care. What the cleansing before it looks like is shown in our guide Double Cleansing, and which toner comes after in the guide Best Korean Toner. For blackheads and large pores, our coordinated Blackheads & Large Pores Routine helps. If you want to put together your routine yourself: in the Skincare Set Builder you choose your products and automatically get a discount from 5 products. Shipping from Vienna throughout Austria, free from €60.

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